In January 2019, I revisited Candi Merak on a driving trip around Klaten regency . This 12-metre high Hindu temple from the kingdom of Mataram Kuno is possibly one of the oldest temples in the Yogyakarta-Klaten area, dating from either the ninth or tenth century. It has many archaic features such as kudu heads, which are associated with the earliest phase of temple-building in Java. While it is clearly a Hindu temple, it incorporates some features more commonly found on Buddhist temples, such as a torus base. This suggests that during the heyday of Mataram Kuno, Hindu architecture began to borrow motifs and features from Buddhist shrines, with Candi Merak being one of the earliest examples. Overall, the focus of this post will mostly be highlighting some of the sculptural highlights from this transitional temple.
The first photo shows the western side of the temple. In this shot you can see the torus-styled base, which had previously been associated with Buddhist temples in Central Java. The highlight of the western wall is a Ganesha niche. While the carving of the elephant-headed god is damaged, with part of his trunk missing, it would be impossible to confuse the identity of the deity. It is also worth noting the lotus pedestal on which the god is sitting: another borrowing from the Buddhist religion. The niche is flanked by two wall carvings of other Hindu deities.
The northern wall features a similar niche, this time featuring the goddess Durga in her ferocious aspect. The depiction on the goddess here is especially impressive. The four-armed deity is shown with a wide-hipped, full-figured form, her body covered with a thin, diaphanous robe. She appears to wear elaborate ornaments in the form of heavy, metallic anklets and decorative arm-bands. Unfortunately, her head has been lost to looters. The goddess is standing on top of a bull, showing her in the incarnation of the slayer of the bull demon. This beautiful carving is one of the highlights of a visit to Candi Merak.
While many previous articles have described the makhara ornaments on the staircase at Candi Merak, much less attention has been given to the delightful bas-relief on the side of the staircase. It is centred around a depiction of the cosmic tree, which is shown here with garlands hanging from its lowermost branches. On the left hand side, there is a well-preserved depiction of a water jug, which is possibly a symbol of fertility and life. On the right-hand side, there is a standing deity represented with robes and heavy jewelry.
The final feature worth inspecting in detail is the roof of the temple. It has a pyramidal shape, consisting of three levels, each one more narrow than the last. The most interesting feature here is the present of small kudu heads inside horseshoe-shaped niches. This design recalls the iconoclastic temple of Candi Bima at Dieng. In later years, this motif was to fall out of popularity in Java. Intriguingly, the presence of kudu heads on Candi Merak suggests some degree of cultural exchange or continuity between the Dieng Plateau temples and the earliest Hindu shrines of Mataram Kuno. In incorporating elements from both the Shivaite temples of Dieng and also those from the neighboring Buddhist temples of the Prambanan Plain, Candi Merak created an interesting hybrid which repays careful examination.
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