To get the most out of a visit to a Thai wat, it is useful to know the names of the basic temple buildings and their functions. While most well-known temples are famous for their vihaans, ubosots or chedis, this list by no means exhausts the range of structures which you can find at a Thai temple. One of the lesser-celebrated examples of Thai religious architecture is the ho trai or Buddhist scripture library. In two recent posts, I have highlighted some fine examples from Northern Thailand: two in Chiang Mai and two in nearby Lamphun. However, this kind of building is by no means limited to the North. In our travels around Thailand’s arid Northeast (often known as ‘Isaan’), we encountered two very beautiful examples as well. One in Ubon Ratchathani is quite well-known. But the second example in Yasothon remains seldom visited by tourists. There are doubtless many other fine examples which await the adventurous traveller.
The town of Ubon Ratchathani is a regional centre with most amenities but it is seldom viewed as a tourist destination in its own right. Nevertheless, there are a few sights in the city and its environs, with a wooden ho trai being one of the most compelling. This old scripture library can be found on the grounds of Wat Thung Si Muang about half a kilometre from the Mun River near the centre of town. It is undoubtedly one of the architectural treasures of Isaan.
The beautiful ho trai at Wat Thung Si Muang
The ho trai is said to be a mixture of the Laotian, Burmese and Thai architectural traditions, which is perhaps part of why it has such an unusual look. Dating from the 1820s, it is perched elegantly on wooden stilts above a rectangular lotus-pond. While the pond has undoubted aesthetic appeal, its primary function was to deter termites and other vermin from climbing into the library and nibbling away at precious manuscripts. Accessed by a wooden bridge, the library itself is a masterpiece of wooden construction. Perhaps its greatest feature is its elaborate six-tiered roof, which is said to be Burmese in inspiration. Also of note is the exquisite floral woodcarving on the outer walls and the naga-shaped eave brackets which decorate the exterior.
The splendid roof of the ho trai at Wat Sri Trinurak
For visitors to Lower Isaan, another example of a fine ho trai can be found in nearby Yasothon province. Yasothon is a rarely visited province, even by Isaan standards, and you could easily visit this part of the country without seeing another foreigner. However, that doesn’t mean there is nothing to see. One of its minor gems is the ho trai on the grounds of Wat Sra Trinurak, about twenty-five kilometres from the provincial capital. Dating back over a century, it is a fine example of Burmese-style architecture. This ten-metre high structure has a four-tiered roof, an intricately carved front door and an unusual porch, partially enclosed by wooden slats. It was registered as a national monument in 1990 and thoroughly restored.
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