Candi Gatotkaca: One of Java’s Oldest Temples

Candi Gatotkaca is not one of the better-known temples of the Dieng Plateau, let alone Java. At the time of writing, it had not even been added as an attraction on the ‘Sights’ section of Tripadvisor. In some ways, this seems odd. After all, it is positioned right at the entrance gate to the well-known Arjuna Complex. Furthermore, it is set right across the road from the Museum Kailasa, which is the main museum on the Dieng Plateau. Yet somehow the tourists walking between these two attractions seem to give Candi Gatotkaca short shrift, almost as if it wasn’t there. However, due to its great age and its membership of a second, ‘hidden’ temple complex at Dieng Plateau, Candi Gatotkaca is more interesting than it might appear on casual inspection.

A kala-makhara arch on the outer walls

In terms of its decoration, Candi Gatotkaca can seem rather austere. It has much less carving than the other temples on the plateau. In terms of exterior ornamentation, the main thing of note is the use of kala-makhara  arches. You will find some excellent examples above the niches on the outer walls. There may once have been one of these arches over the main entrance as well, but it was not possible to include it in the reconstruction. Apart from that, the other feature which is likely to capture your interest is the large, well-preserved yoni which is found inside the temple. This is perhaps the finest example of yoni which is still in situ at Dieng, though there was no sign of the linga.

With regards to the form, it is said to be a mixture of the two main temple plans found on the Dieng Plateau: the square plan and the cruciform plan. It has a fairly simple cella platform, with a short staircase extending out from the main entrance. The roof has an interesting brickwork yet most of the superstructure is missing. This gives it something of an artificially square and stumpy appearance. Its original roof would probably have been tiered like Candi Arjuna. While you are inside the temple, it is also worth checking out the step-corbelled ceiling, which is another common feature of the Dieng temples.

The front view of Candi Gatotkaca, the traces of other structures in the foreground

Apart from this, there are a couple of other facts about Candi Gatotkaca which might enhance its interest for the visitor. Firstly, it is usually classified as one of the oldest temples in all of Java. For instance, in a recent book by Samba Ditta and David Beynon, they suggested a dating for the temple of somewhere between 650 and 750 AD. This makes it one of the oldest Hindu temples in all of Java, dating from the original penetration of the religion into the island. At this point, the architecture of the Javanese temple was still in its infancy and the shrines were comparatively simple compared to the later glories of the Mataram kingdom.

A second point which is worth knowing is there were once two complexes of ancient temples in the vicinity of Candi Gatotkaca. Today, the Arjuna Complex is in reasonably good repair and has been a well-known sight since the days of the Dutch East Indies. Yet right alongside there was another complex, which included six temples. However, until about a decade ago Candi Gatotkaca was the only one of these temples which amounted to more than a pile of rubble. At that time, Candi Setyaki was reconstructed, becoming the second of this second group to re-emerge in something approaching its original form. In the coming years the other four temples- Candi Nakula, Candi Sadewa, Candi Petruk and Candi Gareng- might also see the attentions of restorers. Until then, they will remain piles of bricks in the Dieng mist.

The temple is set in a sunken garden, with a lush hillside in the background